Real Kashmir FC: Football in the world's most militarised zone
What this club's story teaches us about India-Pakistan relations
On April 22nd, international media once again focused on Kashmir. This attention was prompted by a terrorist attack that resulted in the deaths of 26 tourists. The tragic event took place in the city of Pahalgam, which is located in the part of Kashmir administered by India.
According to Narendra Modi, an armed Islamist group supported by Pakistan is believed to be behind the massacre.
Delhi's response was immediate and particularly significant. Border crossings were closed, and the Indus Waters Treaty was suspended. This latter decision risks serious consequences for the Pakistani economy and the security of neighbouring regions.
The tones used by both sides were particularly heated. Both Delhi and Islamabad vowed they were prepared to resort to violence. Currently, clashes between the armed forces of the two countries have been limited to sporadic gunfire.
Violence and terrorist attacks are certainly nothing new in the Kashmir region, a territory over which India and Pakistan have been in conflict since their independence. Over seventy years marked by war, violence, and death, there has emerged a sports story that has completely overturned the narrative of the region: that of Real Kashmir FC. A true fairytale.
It emerged miraculously from a tormented region, scarred by armed insurgencies and an incredible military presence, making it the most militarised region in the world. These conditions have, over the years, pushed increasingly more young Kashmiris to take to the streets and protest, shouting a simple, yet vital demand: azadi.
Which means freedom.
It is also the name of the stadium in Tehran, home to the derby between Persepolis and Esteghlal, the Azadi Stadium.
And if there is one time in recent years when Kashmiris have felt free, it was during the ninety minutes when Real Kashmir played. Football has the power to negate everything surrounding it: violence, weapons, protests, and hatred. For 90 minutes, everything disappears, and anyone involved feels free.
But how did this fairytale begin?
The Birth of Real Kashmir
It is 2014, and the region has just been struck by devastating floods. The rubble and despair caused by the tragic event compound a context already heavily marked by decades of conflict and despondency.
In a situation where anyone might have succumbed to despair, two friends decided to write an indelible chapter in the region's history.
Sandeep Chattoo, a Kashmiri Hindu businessman, and Shamim Mehraj, the Muslim editor of the local newspaper "Kashmir Monitor", thought about what could have been done to offer an alternative to the region's youth. Their initial idea was as simple as powerful: purchase one hundred footballs and distribute them to the local kids.
"We knew they needed an outlet for their energy. We wanted them to play football instead of throwing stones, to find a new direction. We wanted to inspire them to build a better life for themselves."
Sandeep Chattoo
In a short time, the project conceived to keep young people away from violence and provide them with an alternative evolved into a team. And this team found an unexpected and warm reception. The support from the local population was immense, fueled by a deep passion for football – a sport surprisingly well-rooted in Kashmir, unlike cricket, which dominates the rest of India.
This is by no means accidental. Indeed, the story behind football's arrival in Kashmir is quite interesting. We need to go back to 1891, when Tyndale-Biscoe introduced football to his students at the Church Mission Society School in Srinagar.
He brought a leather ball from London and encouraged his students, mainly Kashmiris, to kick it and start playing. However, the students refused, as the leather was made from cowhide, which they considered sacred. To overcome this obstacle, Tyndale-Biscoe suggested they wrap a cloth around their feet to avoid direct contact with the ball.
Returning to Real Kashmir, the enthusiastic response from the local people quickly allowed the initiative to transform into something more ambitious. In 2016, thanks to the efforts of Chattoo and Mehraj, Real Kashmir FC became a fully-fledged club and joined the Jammu & Kashmir Football Association (JKFA).
Thus, the first top-level professional football team in the history of Jammu and Kashmir was born. The name itself, "Real Kashmir," was carefully chosen to convey a specific message: to show the authentic face of the region – that of the young people chasing a ball and the families cheering them from the stands, far removed from the images of violence that dominate the media narrative of the Indo-Pakistani conflict.
As highlighted in their official spot: “When you see Kashmir through the lens of football, you will see the real Kashmir.”
However, passion and vision immediately collided with harsh reality. Years of civil tensions have left the territory devoid of adequate sports infrastructure. Initially, the team didn't even have a proper field to train on. It was forced to take its first steps on the open grounds of a tourist resort, a space lacking even basic fencing or sanitation facilities – a symbol of the enormous difficulties the club would face on its journey.
Jammu and Kashmir
To fully grasp the scope and importance of a project like Real Kashmir FC, it is essential to explore and understand the history of this region. To do so, we must go back to the tumultuous period of the partition of the Indian subcontinent in 1947.
Following the creation of India and Pakistan, which involved division along religious lines (Muslims and Hindus), Kashmir found itself in a unique situation. It was effectively a princely state with a Muslim majority but ruled by a Hindu maharaja.
The crucial decision, significantly impacting the region's future, was made by Maharaja Hari Singh, who, in October 1947, signed the Instrument of Accession to the Indian Union. In a principality with a Muslim majority but governed by a Hindu, this choice immediately triggered an armed conflict between the two newly formed states, both eager to gain full control over the strategic Himalayan region.
The war culminated in July 1949 with the establishment of a ceasefire line, known as the Line of Control (LoC), which effectively divided Kashmir. The territory administered by India, comprising both the southern plains around Jammu and the Kashmir Valley to the north, became known as Jammu and Kashmir. The process to formalise this status within India concluded only in 1957, with the full constitution of the state of Jammu and Kashmir.
However, the division did not end the dispute. Both India and Pakistan continued to claim sovereignty over the entire Kashmir region, transforming the Line of Control into one of the most heavily militarised and tense borders in the world. Tensions have remained extremely high for decades, occasionally erupting into armed clashes, such as the 1965 war, rendering the region's climate perpetually unstable.
Currently, Jammu and Kashmir exhibits a diverse cultural, ethnic, and linguistic composition. Approximately two-thirds of the population is Muslim, while Hindus constitute most of the remaining third. There are also small minorities, including Sikhs and Buddhists. The official languages of the region reflect this diversity: Urdu, Kashmiri, Dogri, Hindi, and English.
Living here means being part of a context overshadowed by an unresolved conflict, with its inevitable consequences on daily life, security, and development, including sports infrastructure.
It is within this difficult and complex scenario, amidst political tensions and logistical challenges, that Real Kashmir FC began its adventure. An adventure that, against all odds, would take an unexpected turn thanks to the arrival of a key figure capable of channelling local passion towards previously unthinkable achievements.
David Robertson
The Real Kashmir FC project needed an experienced figure to transform passion into tangible results. The breakthrough came in January 2017 when, after much persuasion from Sandeep Chattoo, the Scotsman David Robertson accepted the role of manager.
A former player and experienced coach, Robertson declined offers from China and Uganda to coach in a region where challenges extend far beyond the pitch: harsh winters without central heating, frequent internet disruptions, and a persistently precarious security environment.
Yet, Robertson quickly found his place.
"Now the team is my family. It has been a fantastic journey. I am building something special here."
The club's initial steps included participation in the Durand Cup in September 2016 and the 2016-17 I-League 2nd Division, though without achieving any notable results.
It was Robertson's arrival that changed the project's trajectory. In July 2017, Real Kashmir became the first club from the region to play abroad, participating in four matches in Scotland. But the real leap in quality occurred the following season.
In May 2018, at the end of its second season in the I-League 2nd Division, Real Kashmir FC achieved the unthinkable: defeating Hindustan FC 3-2 in the final match, they were crowned champions, securing a historic promotion to the I-League, India's top football division. It was a milestone unimaginable just a few years prior.
The team's impact extended far beyond sporting achievements. As Chattoo stated, "Real Kashmir is more than just a football club. It is an act of hope."
Their debut season in the I-League (2018-19) was triumphant. The team secured an incredible third-place finish, and home matches transformed into major events. The 15,000-seat stadium regularly overflowed with over 20,000 spectators, with thousands more gathered outside.
Even protest marches were reportedly suspended on match days. For 90 minutes, as player Danish Farooq recounted, Kashmiris could experience a sense of normalcy and happiness:
"Even in winter, with sub-zero temperatures, they come to watch us, without shelter, nothing. I believe people need something to hope for and football gives it to them."
The club's growth was also evident off the pitch: in August 2018, the youth team travelled to Germany to train with Borussia Dortmund. The following year, in August 2019, the first team reached the semi-finals of the historic Durand Cup.
But just as the club was experiencing its golden era, consolidating its presence in the top division and uniting the community, historic political events were about to shake the foundations of Jammu and Kashmir once more, casting new shadows over the future of the region and, inevitably, the team.
The Special Status
Until the summer of 2019, Jammu and Kashmir enjoyed a special status within the Indian Union, a condition of semi-autonomy unique among the country's states.
This semi-autonomy originated from post-partition agreements and was based on specific constitutional provisions (primarily Article 370). Unlike other Indian States, fully bound by the national Constitution, Jammu and Kashmir adhered to a modified version, outlined in the Constitution Order, 1954.
This guaranteed the state's integrity within the Republic of India while granting it autonomous powers over various matters, excluding defence, foreign affairs, and communications. The governmental structure included a Governor, appointed by the President of India, as the head of state, and an elected Chief Minister leading the local government, assisted by a council of ministers.
This institutional framework, which had defined the relationship between Srinagar and New Delhi for decades, was abruptly dismantled in August 2019. On August 5th, the Indian central government revoked the constitutional provisions granting autonomy to Jammu and Kashmir.
The decision was accompanied by drastic measures on the ground: a massive deployment of security forces and an almost total communications blackout – landlines, mobile phones, and internet services were suspended, effectively isolating the region from the rest of the world and preventing residents from communicating even amongst themselves.
A few months later, in October 2019, the Jammu and Kashmir Reorganisation Act formally came into effect, changing the region's legal status and boundaries. The State of Jammu and Kashmir ceased to exist and ended up under more direct central government control.
This change represented an epochal shift, ending decades of special autonomy and redrawing the region's political map. The decision, though framed by the central government as necessary for integration and development, sparked strong criticism and concern both locally and internationally. In December 2023, the Indian Supreme Court upheld the constitutionality of the revocation, terming the previous special status a "temporary provision". This opened a new, complex chapter for Jammu and Kashmir, an uncertain future in which the journey of Real Kashmir FC must also navigate.
Social and Political Impact
Beyond the sporting results and complex political dynamics, Real Kashmir FC's most profound legacy lies in the tangible impact it has had on the daily lives and identity of the Kashmiri people. The rise of the "Snow Leopards" has represented far more than just a sports fairytale.
The club's presence has transformed the landscape: football fields, once neglected or underutilised, have been revitalised by the team's training sessions, becoming new centres of community gathering. The enthusiasm generated has inspired the younger generation.
But Real Kashmir's influence extended further, managing to suspend, albeit temporarily, the deep-seated tensions within the social fabric. On home match days, many Kashmiris set aside political divisions.
In a land where daily life is difficult and years of violence have left few reasons to smile, the club offered fans a rare source of collective pride, and above all, hope.
This extraordinary story did not go unnoticed. Through word-of-mouth and attention from international and national media, Real Kashmir's story resonated globally. Adidas India signed a partnership with the club, their first in the country. BBC Scotland produced a documentary detailing Robertson's journey.
Reports suggest that both Netflix and Bollywood have considered film projects inspired by their story. David Robertson himself received the prestigious British Empire Medal in 2021 from the British Crown for his services to the community in Kashmir and UK-India relations, acknowledging the project's social impact.
Undeniably, the geopolitical interests and grand power dynamics overshadowing Kashmir likely remain more potent than a football team. Sport alone cannot resolve decades-old conflicts or geopolitical stakes.
Nevertheless, the story of Real Kashmir FC stands as a wonderful example of how sport can act as a positive catalyst, fostering social cohesion rather than fueling division, offering moments of shared joy, and building a sense of belonging where it once seemed impossible.
It is a project that, despite everything, remains alive and deserves support. We can only echo the hopeful words of Sandeep Chattoo, who sadly passed away in 2023, but whose vision continues to fuel the dream:
"I want football to change life in Kashmir. Football makes people happy and Kashmir needs happiness."
Sources:
https://www.britannica.com/place/Jammu-and-Kashmir/Government-and-society
https://indianexpress.com/article/sports/football/real-kashmir-fc-coach-david-robertson-honoured-with-british-empire-medal-7355878/#:~:text=Story%20continues%20below%20this%20ad
Really interesting article. For anyone wanting to learn more about the history of the region, I would recommend listening to the ‘Empire’ podcast.